The magic of Malindi is evident as you explore beautiful beaches, coral reefs, historical sites, boutiques, restaurants, local villages and nightlife. Of the local resorts, Malindi is the largest, with plenty of shops, restaurants and entertainment. Watamu is about 20 minutes drive south, while Mambrui is about 20 minutes to the north. Watamu has beautiful coral outcroppings rising from the sea, and originated as a tiny fishing village, with later up-country residents developing private beachfront houses there. It has only a few, but very beautiful beach hotels, and the overall atmosphere is quiet. Mambrui, to the north is the most recent development in the chain, and also the northern most on the Cost before Lamu.

Mambrui is graced with broad empty beaches, and the villas and hotels there are large and uncrowded. Transport to Malindi town is readily available for shopping, dining out or exploring. For those who really want to “get away from it all” in beautiful surroundings, these small resorts are for you.

Malindi has more touring options. Just wondering around the ‘Old town’ and the ‘New Town’ gives one a sense of history and that has made Malindi what it is today. View the pillar tombs in front of the Juma (Friday) mosque on the waterfront. The taller of the two was built in the early 15th century. Stroll down the jetty to watch traditional fishermen cast their nets. Then, follow the seafront road south, towards Casuarina point, and you will see the traditional fishing boats: ‘dhows’ and ‘Ingalawas.’ Just past the Baobab restaurant, you will see a tiny makuti topped (palm thatched) hut. This is the Portuguese chapel. It was built around 1542. The caretaker of the chapel will be most welcoming, and will be delighted if you sign his visitor’s book.

Finish your stroll by going out to Vasco de Gama Cross, one of the oldest remaining European monuments in Africa. The cross was set up by Vasco de Gama in 1499, outside of the ruler’s palace, but was moved in deference to religious sentiments. In late afternoon, watch the last of the dhows returning to port, their sails glowing rose coloured with the setting sun.

Malindi was referred to in Arab writings of the 8th century. The coast’s long trading history meant that Malindi had contact with the Arab world, Indian traders, and then the Portuguese. The famous Portuguese explorer, Vasco de Gama, arrived in 1498. Cordial ties between Portugal and Malindi were to last throughout most of the next century.

Malindi with a population of about 6,000 people, prospered from ivory and rhino horn experts, but also from the rich agricultural land surrounding the town. The Portuguese finally moved their headquarters to Mombasa, which resulted in the decline of Malindi, exacerbated by Omani Arabs fighting for control of the East African Coast. Later during the 17th Century, the Galla tribe attacked, and the town lost most of its population. When the missionary Ludwig Krapf visited in 1845, he found no body living in the town. Malindi was later reoccupied as a farming community by Zanzibar sultans, and was officially decreed a town in 1903. By the early 1930s, European settlers were increasing in the area.

Malindi’s first hotel was built in 1931, and contained 9 rooms. In 1934 Earnest Hemingway and friends visited the Palm Beach Hotel (now Blue Marlin) for deep sea fishing. It is hard to believe that today, the Malindi Resort district boasts over 40 hotels. In the mean time, Malindi became popular as a holiday resort, first among British farmers living in Kenya, and later, among visitors from overseas. It was a quiet fishing town without the unsavoury aspects of Mombasa, a crowded port town with few beaches.